Days 18 & 19 : Farewell, Antarctica!

Tuesday & Wednesday February 27-28^th, 2017

The time had come for us to leave Antarctica, to disembark from the Polar Pioneer on the zodiacs for the last time, land on King George Island, walk a kilometre to the Frei (a Chilean base) airfield and fly to Punta Arenas for the night, and onwards to wherever. There would also be a “Changing of the Guard” at Frei as the plane that takes us homeward brings in another 54 expeditioners who will reverse our trip along the Peninsula and then across the Drake Passage to Ushuai.

A storm prevented any landings, by us or by our plane to Punta Arenas

However, the weather changed these plans. Not only where we unable to make any landings on our last day, especially on Deception Island, but the arrival of the plane at Frei station was twice delayed, and the Polar Pioneer cruised in holding patterns off Deception Island and then overnight in Collins Harbour, King George Island. So our mid-day flight became early the following morning, which then became late afternoon!

Days 15-18 : Antarctic Homes Away from Home

I’ve written about the practical, scenic, wildlife and environmental aspects of the Antarctic Peninsula. But a major aspect I’ve only touched on has been the human side. People live and work in Antarctica, and have been doing so for many years. Many countries have permanently occupied or seasonal bases on the Peninsula, and then there are unoccupied buildings that are now museums, emergency shelters, and ruins. This entry has additional comments and images on these Antarctic “homes away from home.”

Refurbished Nissen hut at Bransfield House, Port Lockroy

Days 12-16 : Mountains of the Antarctic Peninsula

Mountains abound on the islands along the west coast of the Antarctic Peninsula, and on the Peninsula itself, and form an extension of the Andes. Its central plateau is an ice sheet at around 1,500-2,000 m, but is largely hidden from our view from the west by rugged mountain ranges that rise 1,000 m, or more, more or less straight from the sea.

Island mountains, off the Antarctic Peninsula

I’ve always had a passion for mountains. I recall as an early-teen reading books about Alpine or Himalayan expeditions. I don’t know what sparked this interest; maybe it was innate! I clearly remember my first bushwalk. I was around 12 and joined some family friends walking up Mt Roland near our home in Sheffield. It was – and still is – steep, and I remember soaking in the bath afterwards and telling Mum that if anyone asked me to climb Mt Everest, I was saying “No!”.

Days 11-17 : Antarctic Wildlife : 2) Animals of the Sea

In this second post on Antarctic Wildlife I’m focusing on the sea, mainly whales and seals.

There was a strong contingent of people on the voyage who went snorkelling or scuba diving. My impression is that they really didn’t see much in the way of biological organisms, large or small! From the zodiacs (read about them here), we could at times see quite deeply into the clear water. What did we see? Nothing! There was virtually no seaweed to be seen, and very little washed up on the shore, and certainly no fishes.

We did see chains of salps, and first thought these were plastics lost overboard from some boat! Rather, salps are gelatinous creatures with bright red internal organs. They reproduce asexually by forming long chains of individuals – which is what we were seeing. As salps are 90% water they don’t contribute significantly to the Antarctic food chain.

A chain of salps washed up on the shore

Days 11-17 : Antarctic Wildlife : 1) Birds

In this and the next entry I’m commenting on the wildlife we saw in Antarctica. To start with, birds; and in the next entry, whales and seals.

Long before we’d crossed the Antarctic convergence zone, the wildlife made an impression through the birds that seemed to be constantly soaring around the boat! However, once close to the Antarctic Peninsula, it was penguins, seals and whales that were our companions, with far fewer birds on the wing. So, to start with, birds.

A skein of cormorants in the Beagle Channel

While crossing the Drake Passage, and elsewhere, it was so rough that the deck was out of bounds and I was photographing through our porthole or the windows of the Polar Pioneer’s bridge. Also, when we were on land the light was invariably dull. As a result, most of my photos lack “punch”, but I’m including quite a few anyway!

Day 14 : Crossing the Antarctic Circle

Thursday 23^rd of February, 2017

“Across the Antarctic Circle” was the name of our expedition, so I suppose crossing the Antarctic Circle was a prime objective of the expedition. In that case, I’d better say how it all went, this crossing of the Antarctic Circle business.

Some where out there is the Antarctic Circle!

Days 11-19 : A Day in the Life of an “Antarctic Expeditioner”

February 20-28^th, 2017 (written at the end of the cruise)

There was a wake-up call over the Polar Pioneer’s PA system, usually around 7 AM, announcing breakfast at 7:30 and the expected time for disembarkation for the morning’s shore-based activities. However, a wake-up call at 6 AM to witness our passage through the awesome Lemaire Channel prompted one of the 54 to retort “I thought this was a holiday!” But it was worth it, as these pictures show!

In the Lemaire Channel – it was worth the early wake up call!