Days 18 & 19 : Farewell, Antarctica!

Tuesday & Wednesday February 27-28^th, 2017

The time had come for us to leave Antarctica, to disembark from the Polar Pioneer on the zodiacs for the last time, land on King George Island, walk a kilometre to the Frei (a Chilean base) airfield and fly to Punta Arenas for the night, and onwards to wherever. There would also be a “Changing of the Guard” at Frei as the plane that takes us homeward brings in another 54 expeditioners who will reverse our trip along the Peninsula and then across the Drake Passage to Ushuai.

A storm prevented any landings, by us or by our plane to Punta Arenas

However, the weather changed these plans. Not only where we unable to make any landings on our last day, especially on Deception Island, but the arrival of the plane at Frei station was twice delayed, and the Polar Pioneer cruised in holding patterns off Deception Island and then overnight in Collins Harbour, King George Island. So our mid-day flight became early the following morning, which then became late afternoon!

Days 15-18 : Antarctic Homes Away from Home

I’ve written about the practical, scenic, wildlife and environmental aspects of the Antarctic Peninsula. But a major aspect I’ve only touched on has been the human side. People live and work in Antarctica, and have been doing so for many years. Many countries have permanently occupied or seasonal bases on the Peninsula, and then there are unoccupied buildings that are now museums, emergency shelters, and ruins. This entry has additional comments and images on these Antarctic “homes away from home.”

Refurbished Nissen hut at Bransfield House, Port Lockroy

Days 12-16 : Mountains of the Antarctic Peninsula

Mountains abound on the islands along the west coast of the Antarctic Peninsula, and on the Peninsula itself, and form an extension of the Andes. Its central plateau is an ice sheet at around 1,500-2,000 m, but is largely hidden from our view from the west by rugged mountain ranges that rise 1,000 m, or more, more or less straight from the sea.

Island mountains, off the Antarctic Peninsula

I’ve always had a passion for mountains. I recall as an early-teen reading books about Alpine or Himalayan expeditions. I don’t know what sparked this interest; maybe it was innate! I clearly remember my first bushwalk. I was around 12 and joined some family friends walking up Mt Roland near our home in Sheffield. It was – and still is – steep, and I remember soaking in the bath afterwards and telling Mum that if anyone asked me to climb Mt Everest, I was saying “No!”.

Days 11-17 : Antarctic Wildlife : 2) Animals of the Sea

In this second post on Antarctic Wildlife I’m focusing on the sea, mainly whales and seals.

There was a strong contingent of people on the voyage who went snorkelling or scuba diving. My impression is that they really didn’t see much in the way of biological organisms, large or small! From the zodiacs (read about them here), we could at times see quite deeply into the clear water. What did we see? Nothing! There was virtually no seaweed to be seen, and very little washed up on the shore, and certainly no fishes.

We did see chains of salps, and first thought these were plastics lost overboard from some boat! Rather, salps are gelatinous creatures with bright red internal organs. They reproduce asexually by forming long chains of individuals – which is what we were seeing. As salps are 90% water they don’t contribute significantly to the Antarctic food chain.

A chain of salps washed up on the shore

Days 11-17 : Antarctic Wildlife : 1) Birds

In this and the next entry I’m commenting on the wildlife we saw in Antarctica. To start with, birds; and in the next entry, whales and seals.

Long before we’d crossed the Antarctic convergence zone, the wildlife made an impression through the birds that seemed to be constantly soaring around the boat! However, once close to the Antarctic Peninsula, it was penguins, seals and whales that were our companions, with far fewer birds on the wing. So, to start with, birds.

A skein of cormorants in the Beagle Channel

While crossing the Drake Passage, and elsewhere, it was so rough that the deck was out of bounds and I was photographing through our porthole or the windows of the Polar Pioneer’s bridge. Also, when we were on land the light was invariably dull. As a result, most of my photos lack “punch”, but I’m including quite a few anyway!

Day 14 : Crossing the Antarctic Circle

Thursday 23^rd of February, 2017

“Across the Antarctic Circle” was the name of our expedition, so I suppose crossing the Antarctic Circle was a prime objective of the expedition. In that case, I’d better say how it all went, this crossing of the Antarctic Circle business.

Some where out there is the Antarctic Circle!

Days 11-19 : A Day in the Life of an “Antarctic Expeditioner”

February 20-28^th, 2017 (written at the end of the cruise)

There was a wake-up call over the Polar Pioneer’s PA system, usually around 7 AM, announcing breakfast at 7:30 and the expected time for disembarkation for the morning’s shore-based activities. However, a wake-up call at 6 AM to witness our passage through the awesome Lemaire Channel prompted one of the 54 to retort “I thought this was a holiday!” But it was worth it, as these pictures show!

In the Lemaire Channel – it was worth the early wake up call!

Days 9-19 : On the Polar Pioneer

I plan to write about the rhythm of our daily life on – and off – the Polar Pioneer! But first I’ll write a little about the Polar Pioneer herself.

We first met the Polar Pioneer in Ushuai, moored next to the Crystal Serenity, a large cruise ship. She sure looked small in such company, but proved to be a very comfortable vessel (despite what the seasick might have thought!), even though she was not offering us the luxury of her Ushuai berth mate!

In Ushuai harbour: the Crystal Serenity on the left, Polar Pioneer to her right.

Days 11-19: Zodiacs, without which this Expedition could have been Boring!

February 20-28^th, 2017 (edited at the end of the cruise)

The zodiacs are really what made our Antarctic Expedition possible. They are what gave us access to the islands and the ice, and they provided essential backup support for the snorkelers and divers. And at times they provided a considerable degree of excitement and quite an adrenalin rush!

Heading for a landing on mainland Antarctica

 

Days 11-19 : Antarctic Shades of Grey

February 20-28^th, 2017 (written at the end of the cruise)

We’ve all seen the travel brochure images of Antarctica … a cloudless sky with the sun illuminating the dazzling white snow, the deep blue of crevices in the ice and the tourist boat floating serenely, reflected amidst ice flows on an a azure blue see. Well, it’s not quite like that!

Well, maybe for a few brief hours it was like that …

… and often like this – as seen through our porthole!

 

Day 11 : Antarctica - First Contact

Monday 20^th February, 2017

After two nights and a day of tossing and churning we crossed the Antarctic Convergence, an invisible line determined by the properties and condition of the sea water such as temperature and density. South of this line is the Antarctic Ocean. Some hours later the swell dropped markedly and we were in the lea of the South Shetland Islands. And then we saw it: a long low white cloud, brighter than the grey sea and cloud: an ice cap on the South Shetland Islands.

This was Antarctica … well, an Antarctic island!

Ice cap on a South Shetland Island

Days 8 & 9 : Ushuai, “Capital of Antarctica”

Friday 17^th to Saturday 18^th February, 2017

The claim “Capital of Antarctica” probably stems from the fact that Ushuaia is the world’s southernmost city, and the closest to the Antarctic mainland. It is a major stepping stone to Antarctica for both tourists and scientific expeditions. I recall something like 90% of Antarctic tourists pass through Ushuaia on their way to Antarctica.

 

Boats on their way to Antarctica. The Polar Explorer is right of center

 

Day 7 : El Calafate

Thursday February 17^th, 2017

El Calafate is a small town of around 23,000 permanent residents on the southern shore of Lago Argentino, whose western end becomes a series of glacial valleys or fjords running leading into the southern end of Parque Nacional dos Glaciares. El Calafate is a major tourist centre and the little CBD was bustling with tourists and locals alike, despite the pouring rain.

Day 6 : EcoCamp Safari to French Glacier

Wednesday February 15th, 2017

On our third day Krista stayed in camp for the day, so I joined three others of our original group on a 17 km return walk to the French Glacier, led by our guide Pablo. The French Glacier and river drains the central part of the massif, south into Nordenskjold Lake. There had been a little rain overnight, but the morning was dry with high cloud. Our return walk was windless and in a very light drizzle, but not enough to dampen our spirits! Besides, the reflections were stunning!

Refelctions on Sköttsberg Lake

Day 5 : EcoCamp Safari to Lake Grey

Tuesday February 14th, 2017

Whereas our first night had been cloudy, very, very windy and overnight rain, our second day dawned absolutely clear, no wind and decidedly cold. I got up early and saw the sunrise painting the Torres with red light. Quite a sight! I also found the Contemplation Walk and explored that.

Early morning light on the Torres

Lake Grey, today’s destination, is a glacial lake in the western end of the park, and has highest point – Paine Grande – of the Torres del Paine massif rising nearly 2600m right out of the lake. We were bussed to the hotel at bottom end of the lake via numerous lookouts over various lakes, and of course constant views the massif itself. We were now familiar with the view from the eastern end, with the various towers standing dominant. But now these were hidden and we were seeing new features, and finally Paine Grande itself.

Day 4: EcoCamp Safari to Laguna Azul

Monday February 13^th, 2017

Each day at the EcoCamp we had a choice of easy, medium or hard activities. We chose easy, except for the last day when Krista stayed in camp and I went on a medium 17 km hike. The easy outings were nature based, and had some short walks of up to 4-5 km. More or less everywhere we went, the scenery was dominated by the Torres del Paine massif, and we ended up seeing it from the east, south and west.

Just one of the many panoramic views of Torres del Paine massif

 

Days 3-7: EcoCamp Patagonia

February 12^th –16^th, 2017

Torres del Paine is a massif to the east of the main Andes and is a major tourist attraction for general tourists, hikers and serious mountaineers. There are several hotels in and near the national park, each of which also has camping grounds. And then there is EcoCamp Patagonia …

EcoCamp Welcome Dome with Torrres del Paine in the background

Day 2 - Punta Arenas

Sunday 11^th February, 2017

Today in Punta Arenas was our recovery day from confinement in airplanes and interminable queues …

… and it was a day of warm (for here!) sunshine but a very strong northerly wind. We are in the furious fifties here (53 S) and the strength of the wind reminded us of that fact. If it had been from the south it would have been frigid, to boot! We wandered around the waterfront and Centrum (the CBD), had a meal, visited a café, found a supermarket, bought a sim-card for my phone, and chatted with tourists from a cruise ship.

The Victoria anchored off Punta Arenas

But first …

Day 1 … Sardine Tin Travelling

Friday 10^th February, 2017

Today, Day 1, is a long day, so long that we have a night in the middle of it, and arrive in Santiago before we have left Sydney! It’s all because we cross the international date line, and the date is turned back one day. But the actual time difference between Sydney and Santiago is 14 hours.

It’s also a long day of travelling; nearly 30 hours from when we got up in the morning to when we get to Punta Arenas in southern Chile,  our destination – and still on the same date.

Introduction

Thursday 9^th February, 2017

Both Krista and I have long had a fascination with Antarctica.

I was drawn to Antarctica when I was a kid by reading books of early Antarctic exploration. Then there was the 1955–58 Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic Expedition lead by Edmund Hilary and Vivian Fuchs. While in high school my interest in science grew and the 1957-58 International Geophysical Year grabbed my attention. This featured a range of Earth Science subjects, many focusing on Antarctica such as ionospheric and aurora physics, and cosmic ray research.

By the time I'd completed my BSc degree at the University of Tasmania I'd also developed a passion for mountaineering and skiing, which Patagonia and Antarctica clearly offered in abundance. But a PhD in Theoretical Physics specialising in optics was not a good CV for a stint in Antarctica! However, I continued to dream of visiting Antarctica, whilst recognizing it was simply that, a dream! I'm not sure how the young Krista, still resident in Finland, thought she could wangle a trip to Antarctica, as a degree in entomology and experience with leaf hoppers seems equally unsuitable as a CV as mine!

So a visit to Antarctica - along with Nepal and Patagonia, and a few other places - was on our bucket list!

Three friends independently made cruises from Ushuaia along the Antarctic peninsula in the summer of 2015-16. This encouraged us to think, "Well, why not us?", and having made that decision, it became "Why not also Patagonia?". It's a long flight across the Pacific Ocean, so we soon decided to break the journey by visiting Easter Island, and finally the vagaries of airline time tables suggested a couple of days on Tahiti. So an 11 day cruise became 4 weeks of travel!

So this blog documents our travels and travails, from Antarctica to the Tropics.