Thursday 23rd of February, 2017
“Across the Antarctic Circle” was the name of our expedition, so I suppose crossing the Antarctic Circle was a prime objective of the expedition. In that case, I’d better say how it all went, this crossing of the Antarctic Circle business.
Some where out there is the Antarctic Circle!
It all happened around 5:30 in the afternoon of Day 6 of our cruise, the 23rd of February. It was grey, windy and damp, with snow flurries. According to the “Penguin Post” the air and water temperature was 2C, and the wind 38 knots. The Polar Pioneer was pitching in the swell, but nonetheless we were summoned to congregate on her foredeck, dressed in waterproofs and warm clothing.
Waiting for the big moment!
Steve, our expedition leader, stood precariously on some item of equipment on the foredeck and announced that the crossing would occur shortly, and that it seems the Antarctic Circle passes through that iceberg over there, while pointing to a passing iceberg. However, I could not see a line in the water, and anyway, icebergs are moving objects.
I was reminded of Pooh Bear’s “Expotition to find the North Pole” where they didn’t have a clue as to what they were looking for! We didn’t have Eeyore to find us a circle, but fortunately the bridge had sophisticated navigational equipment and duly sounded the ship’s klaxon to announce the success of our expedition. That noise, right above our heads, was almost enough to make us jump out of our wet weather gear and into the briny deep!
But it was also the signal for celebrations. Champagne was served, a toast proposed and drunk. We were asked to make a sacrifice and share our champagne with King Neptune by tipping some of our glass over board!
We were also branded with a black circle on our forehead, using the plug from a cabin sink and an inked rubber stamp pad. This was the official mark that we had crossed the Antarctic Circle … until we received our Certificates at the end of the voyage. The rain, however, made our circle short lived as black streaks soon sullied our face.
Two intrepid Antarctic Expeditioners, marked for life
The weather was deteriorating, the wind picking up, and the swell strengthening. It was becoming time to go below decks, but we had an oath to take: Captain Cook’s Antarctic Oath of respect and support for Antarctica as a wilderness for all time. I don’t know the origin of the Oath, but it was consistent with the often reinforced message about our responsibility to help maintain the integrity of the Antarctic wilderness. The Oath was read by our expedition leader Steve, still standing on the foredeck equipment, and we repeated the key element of the oath:
We will keep Antarctica pristine and untouched for peace, harmony and nature. So be it!
The reading of the Oath.
Formalities over, the weather even more unpleasant with the wind now gusting well over 40 knots, we retreated below decks. Meanwhile, the Polar Pioneer continued south for a while. Why? My surmise was uncertainty as to just where that line in the sea is … after all, that iceberg was moving, too!
The full text of the Oath as read to us
In a way, crossing the Antarctic Circle was anticlimactic for me. However, it did highlight a major difference between Antarctica and equivalent latitudes in Scandinavia. We have crossed the Arctic Circle several times in Finland. In winter there was snow and ice aplenty, but in late summer it was mild, with lush growth, wild flowers … and mosquitos. And the lakes were swimmable – but perhaps only just at the high latitudes. We sure live in a fascinating world!
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