Tuesday February 14th, 2017
Whereas our first night had been cloudy, very, very windy and overnight rain, our second day dawned absolutely clear, no wind and decidedly cold. I got up early and saw the sunrise painting the Torres with red light. Quite a sight! I also found the Contemplation Walk and explored that.
Early morning light on the Torres
Lake Grey, today’s destination, is a glacial lake in the western end of the park, and has highest point – Paine Grande – of the Torres del Paine massif rising nearly 2600m right out of the lake. We were bussed to the hotel at bottom end of the lake via numerous lookouts over various lakes, and of course constant views the massif itself. We were now familiar with the view from the eastern end, with the various towers standing dominant. But now these were hidden and we were seeing new features, and finally Paine Grande itself.
The lakes we were seeing this morning were interconnected, several by the Paine River. We had many vantage points, looking down into the lakes, across to the mountains, or both! There were of course other mountains around, but the Torres del Paine massif was as always attention seeking!
Appreciating a new angle on the Torres del Paine massif
We crossed the Paine River and then got out of the bus for a 4 km walk along an open, undulating ridge in mild sunny weather. This was great: we could take a bit of time to “smell the roses”, and to stop and take photos. Our guides Pablo and Zac were very patient with the photographers amongst us! There had obviously been a mass of orchids in spring, judging from number of dead flower heads, but very little was in flower this late in summer. However, some of the shrubs bore very strong resemblance to some of our Tasmanian species. We continuously saw dead and scorched trees from the fire. We also saw numerous birds of prey on the wing, including a condor, but never close up.
Scenes from our ridge-line walk. The lake is Lake Toro
Back to the bus we continued across a broad and very flat valley that must have been the bottom of an ancient glacial lake from the ice ages. Now it is lush with grass, but no trees. Somewhere across that plain we crossed the Grey River, and entered the moraines at the base of Lake Grey.
A small ferry plies the lake, and carries us and many other tourists 15 km up to the glacial tongues at the head of the lake. It is beginning to cloud over, and there is a strong, cold breeze draining off the glaciers and continuing down the lake. Being out on deck was decidedly bracing! The west bank of the lake rises sharply to rocky and snowy peaks, but the eastern bank rises around 2,800 m to the spectacular icy cornices of Paine Grande itself. I found these of far more interest than the ancient glacier that is down at my level!
Views up and across Grey Lake
The ice sculptures of the delicately corniced summit of Paine Grande (3050 m)
There are a few tiny icebergs dotting the lake, but these become more numerous and larger as we near the glaciers themselves. We cruise along the three glacial tongues at the head of the lake, but keep a respectable distance as their inner beast occasionally growls as if disturbed by our presence.
In the presence of the glaciers. Note the deep blue of the recesses in the ice
Back at the southern end of the lake it was much warmer than under those glaciers! From the ferry we walked back to to the bus along a broad gravelly bar – a low moraine – into a Nothofagus forest of beautiful mature trees. I was surprised at how dry it was – quite the opposite of our Nothofagus (or myrtle) forests which are decidedly wet.
Crossing the Lake Grey bar, and into the forest
On the drive back to the EcoCamp we saw five puma, or mountain lion, 50 metres off the road with a guanaco carcass. Three were resting, one was prowling and the fifth was tearing the carcass to pieces. This was a very special experience, and even our guides were excited! It was dusk, the light was poor, but many photos were taken.
Puma, or Mountain Lion at kill, and resting but alert
The clouds had really closed in around the mountains by now, and we were seeing them in a very different mood. Tomorrow is always another day, and this tomorrow was looking potentially wet!
A very gloomy evening over the massif
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